Printed Denim: Is the Future of Denim, Denim?
Denim, once designed as durable workwear in the 19th century, has become a timeless wardrobe staple across generations and cultures, but its environmental impact is increasingly concerning.
The dyeing process for conventional denim is particularly harmful, relying on synthetic indigo and a cocktail of toxic chemicals that lead to severe water pollution. Distressing techniques, often used to create the coveted "vintage denim" aesthetic, further contribute to waste and inefficiency. The irony is that high-quality denim is deliberately worn down through harsh mechanical and chemical processes, only to achieve an artificially aged look. As the demand for vintage-inspired denim rises, the industry continues to wastefully degrade what could have been durable, long-lasting garments.
A Game-Changing Alternative
At Labwear Studios, we are dedicated to constant innovation and are always on the lookout for newer and more sustainable production methods. One interesting breakthrough is printed denim, which replaces conventional dyeing techniques with digital printing technology.
Unlike traditional denim, where cotton yarns are dyed before weaving (as seen in premium Japanese denim), printed denim starts with a raw cotton twill base. Instead of submerging the fabric in chemical-rich dye baths, high-resolution digital prints are applied directly onto the flat twill roll, with the pattern pre-mapped to ensure a precise fit for each garment. This technique eliminates the need for excessive water use, reduces the number of production steps, and minimizes waste. Any cutting waste that is created through the process remains raw unprinted twill ideal to be repurposed.
Alongside its more sustainable properties printed denim offers more efficiency. Traditional garment dyeing processes are time consuming and impractical for small scale productions, but printed denim allows for on-demand manufacturing. Lower MOQs (minimum order quantities) make it possible to produce limited runs or even custom one-off pieces without unnecessary overproduction.
Labwear Studios x Nowrubi
Recognizing the potential of this innovation, Labwear Studios collaborated with Berlin based designer, Nowrubi to push the boundaries of printed denim. Ruben Nowak, founder and Creative Director of Nowrubi has extensive experience in laser customization from previous collections, therefore we knew Nowrubi was the perfect partner to explore this cutting edge technique. The result? A groundbreaking Printed Denim Set, featuring a dry-cleaning plastic effect. Ruben Nowak wanted to create a denim look that couldn’t possibly be achieved with traditional denim dyes. So he opted to wrap a pair of jeans in plastic which he then photographed and ran through a graphic design program. We then created the digital panels and sent the designs to our factories where the pieces were printed, cut and assembled into a ready to wear piece. “We don’t need to use denim in its original way, as in heavy workwear. We just try to create art..” Ruben Nowak.
This project marked several milestones for Labwear Studios. The set was produced using only 97 liters of water, an astonishing reduction compared to conventional denim, which typically requires thousands of liters per garment. Printed with Oeko-Tex-certified inks and completely free of toxic dyes, the collection was ethically manufactured in one of our factories in Portugal.
Unveiled at Berlin Fashion Week FW25, the Printed Denim Set became our first ever runway piece. This moment underscored the growing interest in printed denim, not just as a gimmick, but as a serious alternative with real potential to transform how we think about fashion production.
A New Chapter, Not the End of an Era
While the technology is promising, printed denim is still in its early stages and not yet widely accessible. Industrial DTG printing requires specialized equipment and expertise, making it challenging for smaller brands to gain access to and adopt. At Labwear Studios, we were fortunate to gain factory access to this technology, an opportunity that many independent designers do not have. By experimenting with it firsthand, we hope to pave the way for broader adoption and greater accessibility in the future.
We understand that consumer perception also plays a crucial role in determining printed denim’s future. Will fashion enthusiasts embrace it as a legitimate alternative, or will they see it as an imitation of the real thing? Storytelling will be key in shifting mindsets, communicating that printed denim is not about replacing traditional denim, but about offering a sustainable, more creative and innovative alternative.
